The Resplendent Saree
The fabric has its origins in China and the three Parsi brothers were responsible for its entry into India and from Gujarat it traveled to Varanasi where the weave became very popular and from the Parsi dominance it spread all over India. The parsees’ have a penchant for embroidery and this fabric has a rich look, which was very fine for their formal functions. After 1940, its fame spread and the Tanchoi was used for making dresses and sarees. The satin base and the rich weave is undoubted, a jewel worth having. The weaving is dense and has no hanging threads and most loved designs are birds, gardens or jals also on the body ‘tan’ alluding to the name of Tanchoi!
The weave is known to have a satin effect. It is created when not only two or five colours on the weft and double warp are of the same colour. The silk effect is created by extra silk wefts to give a satin effect. The weave is famous for creating small weaving patterns. Dense forests woven delicately on the body is also a favourite. This was done on satin fabric base to bring in innovation in Tanchoi. There was also the addition of gold and silk thread on the weft and the warp creating a zari effect. Banaras Tanchoi has a lot of variations and the use of satin and the weaving on the body of the sareee or the ‘tan’ is also an interesting tanchoi variant.
The Tanchoi of Gujarat has exclusive patterns where extra yarns in the weft by which the designs such as flying of birds, trees or flowers is executed. The Tanchoi of Gujarat is not as heavy as Varanasi. The designs are sometimes geometric and have a deep dependence on Islamic architecture. The saree has a sheen of splendour and it resonates with pride at our creativity which has held us together. This love for Tanchoi binds us together. The Tanchoi saree is a must in a Parsee home and for us it is also a necessity because when we wear such hand woven wonders – can we truly understand our country. Queen Elizabeth II was gifted a three-hundred-year-old design, Tanchoi silk saree when she visited India. The treasure chest of weaves which is ours, it has a lot of glorious stories of valour and ability. Shatika has the most fabulous Tanchoi sarees in its repertoire and all waiting for your generosity.
Shop For India’s Finest Handloom Sarees at – http://www.shatika.co.in/