The rich Brocade Saree from Varanasi or Banaras

by Shatika, July 14, 2016

The fine past

The fine and opulent embroidery from the biggest state of India has been in practice since the fourteenth century. Even then women loved to dress in fine clothes and their sarees reeked of their status in the society. Since the saree was worn and is worn, so the range of the saree is endless and the scope of creativity is infinite. When the Mughals were ruling, the use of gold and silver threads, the intricate jhallers, intertwining, florals, bel, kalga and motifs. Mina work was already in use. Followed by the famine in Gujarat the silk weavers relocated to Benaras and the saree industry added some feathers-it flourished. Seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, were good periods for the development of the designs and after the production of silk, by the 19th and the 20th century, we now have a swarm of regular buyers. Sarees to pack in your daughters trousseau or to wear for a wedding the first thing that comes to our mind,is a benarasi  saree. Shatika has the largest and the finest benarasi silk saree collection for our favourite people-our saree lovers!


The Jamdani silk

is a variety of brocade which is also  part of the benarasi loom. Here the silk fabric is brocaded with cotton and rarely with zari threads. Jamdani is woven by setting the pattern thread between a varying number of warp threads in proportion to the size of the design, then throwing the shuttle to pass the regular weft. By repeating this process, when the size and placing of the cut-thread is in accordance with the character of the pattern. The Jamdani weaver produces beautiful pan buti (leaf form) The most attractive design feature of the Jamdani sari is konia or a corner-motif having a floral mango buta. Brocade weavers of Banaras have often endeavoured to add a sense of gaiety and festivity by brocading patterns in colourful silk threads amidst the usual gold and silver motifs. In view below is a saree from Shatika:

brocade banarasi saree

katan benaras silk saree

The above saree is an example in which silk motifs have been woven. The saree represented now has Jangla wildly spread motifs is among the oldest in Banares brocades. The saree in question is an example of a fine banarasi silk saree.


Tanchoi, Tissue Trivia

Using a technique similar to that of brocade, weavers of Banaras weave sarees use colorful extra weft silk yarn for patterning. This varietyis known as tanchoi.

The renowned Zari brocade weavers of Banaras have evolved a technique of weaving tissue material which looks like golden cloth. By running Zari in weft a combination of Zari and silk in extra-weft (pattern thread) and silk in warp, the weave of the saree, has densely patterned golden lotuses floating in a glimmering pond. The ‘drops of water’ are created by cut work technique. The borders and the end panel have a pool of diamond patterns enclosed by a border of running paisley motifs. Tissue sarees are very popular as a wedding saree. Tissue sari has a glazed and shining presence, due to the use of real gold Zari/Silver Zari in weft on silk warp.

What is brocade?

Brocade refers to those textiles where patterns are created in weaving by setting or thrusting the pattern-thread between the warp. In regular weaving the weft thread passes over and under the warp thread regularly. But when brocade designs in gold, silver silk or cotton threads are to be woven, special threads are transfixed in between by skipping the passage of the regular weft over a certain number of warp threads (depending upon the pattern) to make the zari-brocades-When gold and silver threads are used along with or without silk-threads, thrust either as special weft or warp to create glittering raised ornamentation is called brocade. It is to be understood that the gold, threads are actually only silver threads with gold polish and that these threads are obtained by closely winding extremely fine gold or silver wire around a silk thread. Wedding sarees have a lot of heavy brocade work and that’s what weddings are all about, the new sarees are flaunted and the old sarees are aired.

banarasi silk saree

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